Our Sri Lankan Odyssey - 2025
With the frustrating “visa stuff up” with India finally behind us, we turned our focus to Sri Lanka—a place of my birth, but this time, I was eager to experience it with Vicki, to explore it more deeply, and to capture its sights and sounds on video and audio.
We landed at Katunayake Airport late in the evening on Wednesday, March 12th, and to our surprise, everything just… flowed. No delays, no hassles—just a seamless transition into this new adventure.
A quick taxi ride brought us to our hotel in Negombo, a charming seaside town known for its proximity to the airport. Often called ‘Little Rome’ for its many churches and deep Catholic heritage, this vibrant coastal city has an inviting charm. Exhausted but excited, we collapsed into bed, eager to wake up to the rhythm of the ocean.
Morning greeted us with the familiar call of the waves, and as is our ritual back home in Sydney, we set off for a walk along the beach, just a few metres from our hotel. The sand was welcoming, the breeze warm, and for a moment, we felt completely at ease. After our walk, we sought out our first Sri Lankan coffee experience, only to discover that coffee here is… well, let’s just say, an acquired taste. But no complaints—Sri Lanka is a land of exquisite tea, not barista-made cappuccinos.
Back at the hotel, we were served kiri bath—creamy, fragrant milk rice. It turned out to be the perfect choice, as this morning coincided with Poya, the full moon day, which is a sacred public holiday in Sri Lanka. Kiri bath is a traditional dish for such occasions, and it felt like a small but special introduction to the island’s customs. The young chef who prepared it clearly took pride in his cooking, and we made sure to let him know how much we appreciated it.
Before long, our Uber pulled up, ready to take us to our next destination—Hikkaduwa. Vicki had booked us two nights right on the beach, and from the moment we arrived, we felt a shift—a deep exhale. Our host welcomed us with warmth and generosity, a kindness that we would soon realize wasn’t just reserved for hospitality—it was simply the Sri Lankan way.
With the waves practically at our doorstep, we wasted no time capturing the magic of the place. Filming the golden sunsets, the swaying palms, and the endless ocean felt effortless—like trying to bottle a dream.
And just like that, Sri Lanka had us under its spell.
As our journey unfolded, we couldn’t help but notice how certain ethnic groups seemed to gravitate toward particular areas. Hikkaduwa, for instance, had a distinct Russian presence. Various factors have shaped the sometimes complex relationship between Russian tourists and local communities, yet despite these dynamics, Russians made up nearly 25% of all tourist arrivals in Sri Lanka in 2023.
Our next stop was Mirissa, where we planned to spend a couple of nights, hoping to catch a glimpse of the elusive blue whale—the largest creature on Earth, found only in Sri Lankan waters. We arrived on a Saturday to find Mirissa buzzing with energy. It has the vibe of a party town, but the revelry seems to peak on weekends.
Eager for a responsible whale-watching experience, Vicki had done her research and found a company that prided itself on ethical practices—Raja & the Whales. “As pioneers of whale-watching tours in Mirissa, they have been leading excursions for over 14 years, offering travelers the chance to witness an incredible array of marine life. Beyond the majestic blue whales, sightings may include fin whales, sei whales, sperm whales, orcas, pilot whales, humpback whales, dolphins, flying fish, turtles, manta rays, and, for the especially lucky, even whale sharks.”
We enjoyed our day out on the Indian Ocean. The vast blue stretched endlessly before us, the salty breeze thick with anticipation. While the famed blue whales remained elusive, we were fortunate to encounter some of the other marine marvels, reminding us of the sheer magic that thrives beneath the waves.
As music and sound practitioners, Sri Lanka holds a special place in our hearts—not only because it is my mother country but also due to its unique energetic and sonic landscape. Positioned along key ley lines—electromagnetic pathways akin to the meridians in the human body—Sri Lanka is believed to interact with sound and consciousness in profound ways. These ley lines create high-vibration zones that shape both the spiritual and cultural fabric of the region. Surely, something must account for the beauty of Sri Lanka and the remarkable nature of its people.
Beyond its energetic properties, Sri Lanka is also a significant center for Siddha and Ayurvedic healing, traditions deeply aligned with the natural vibrations of the Earth. (Vicki was able to indulge in the $15 Ayurvedic massages offered pretty much everywhere.)
The island’s geomagnetic energy, combined with its rich sonic traditions, creates an environment where sound, meditation, and ritual practices are naturally amplified by the Earth’s energy field, often leading to heightened states of awareness and spiritual experiences.
The landscape itself plays a vital role in this energetic resonance. Dense rainforests, cascading waterfalls, and lush vegetation generate negative ions, known to enhance mood and increase sensitivity. Many ancient temples and caves were also designed with perfect acoustic properties, allowing sacred chants and mantras to reverberate in ways that deepen their transformative power.
As our journey continued we decided that it was the beautiful South Coast of Sri Lanka that needed more exploration and recording of our travels and experience.
From Mirissa it was another Uber ride to Tangale. Again we were right on the beach spending three days and nights in this beautiful place that was struck hard by the tsunami in December 2004. It was a devastating time, thousands lost their lives and entire communities were shattered. A few months later, we arrived to do some volunteering, hoping to help in whatever way we could. On the South Coast, in a small town called Talalla, we met an Australian who had dedicated himself to rebuilding the town and its people’s lives. His resilience was inspiring. He shared with us his dream of creating a wellness centre—at that time, it was nothing more than an idea and the earliest foundations. Seeing it rise from the wreckage all these years later, standing strong and beautiful, was deeply moving. Laurie Rose has built something truly special, a sanctuary of healing. Being there again, witnessing its transformation, was an emotional full-circle moment. Vicki thought the beach was one of the most breathtaking we had ever seen—a place where the ocean, which once brought so much destruction, now offers peace.
Our journey continued with a smooth, almost surreal drive in an electric car to Ella—the gateway to paradise. Ella is a stunning hill country town, famous for its breathtaking scenery, tea plantations, and relaxed vibe and a favorite among nature lovers and adventure seekers. The town itself has a laid-back, backpacker-friendly atmosphere, with cozy cafes, homestays, and yoga retreats. Some of the attractions we got to photograph and video were the Nine Arches Bridge – An iconic railway bridge set amidst lush greenery, Ravana Falls – A beautiful waterfall with links to the Ramayana legend, and many Tea Plantations & Factories – where you can learn all about Ceylon tea.
We stayed in a charming guest house, where our host treated us with such warmth and generosity that we felt truly spoiled. There’s something about the Sri Lankan hospitality, a kind of love that lingers in every shared meal, every smile, every cup of tea offered with genuine care.
From Ella, we decided to take the train to Nanu Oya, the gateway to Nuwara Eliya. We booked seats in the Observation Car at the back of the train to capture the most breathtaking views on this spectacular journey into the mountains. The roughly two-and-a-half-hour ride—often rated as one of the world’s most beautiful train trips—took us through rugged mountains, lush greenery, endless tea plantations, and pristine waterfalls. It was undoubtedly one of the major highlights of our Sri Lankan odyssey.
Nanu Oya is the nearest railway station to Nuwara Eliya, a former British colonial town that is a popular holiday destination for locals. For me, it holds a deeper significance—it’s a place woven into the fabric of my childhood. Many of our school holidays were spent here, during a time when life was simple yet filled with dreams. Often referred to as “Little England” due to its colonial-era architecture and cool climate, Nuwara Eliya remains as picturesque as ever, nestled in the heart of Sri Lanka’s central highlands. Situated at an elevation of about 1,868 meters above sea level, it is known for its tea plantations, lush green landscapes, and misty mountains. Nuwara Eliya has a cool and temperate climate, with temperatures ranging between 10–20°C (50–68°F) throughout the year. It is a popular escape from Sri Lanka’s tropical heat.
My late father was the Postmaster of the Nuwara Eliya post office, and stepping into that space again was quite emotional for me. I spoke to the current Postmaster, and as I stood there, I couldn’t help but picture my father, working tirelessly, handling letters and parcels, his mind likely filled with hopes of a better future for Mum, for us kids. And one day, his dream came true. We were approved to migrate to Australia, a blessing that changed the course of our lives forever.
Our next stop was Wilpattu National Park where we spent an awesome day four- wheel driving in Sri Lanka’s oldest and most enchanting wilderness. This vast, untamed paradise—508 square miles of dense forests, hidden natural lakes every corner we took, and rugged, bumpy trails—felt like stepping into another world. Every turn revealed something breathtaking, from the golden glow of the sun filtering through some ancient trees to the sudden rustle of unseen creatures moving through the undergrowth.
Wilpattu, meaning “Land of Lakes,” is a place of stillness (bar the jeeps bumping along) and mystery, its rain-fed lakes shimmer like scattered jewels in the wild. Unlike the more famous Yala, Wilpattu remains peaceful, raw, and immersive—where nature truly reigns.
The lens captured only a fraction of the magic: a majestic elephant, a leopard melting into the shadows, a sloth bear lazily ambling through the undergrowth, water buffalos, water birds, and a sky alive with a variety of eagles, hawks, and vibrant peacocks. The symphony of bird calls, the whisper of the wind through ancient trees—it was nature in its purest, most untouched form. Wilpattu isn’t just a park; it’s an experience, a world waiting to be discovered.
“Our next destination was, without a doubt, the pièce de résistance of our entire odyssey—we truly lived it up at Geoffrey Bawa’s masterpiece, Heritance Kandalama.”
A stay at Heritance Kandalama is more than just a luxurious getaway—it is an immersion into the visionary world of Deshamanya Geoffrey Bawa and his pioneering philosophy of tropical modernism. Nestled in the heart of Dambulla, this architectural marvel is often hailed as a masterstroke of eco-friendly design, seamlessly integrating into its lush natural surroundings.
Bawa (1919–2003) remains one of Asia’s most influential architects, celebrated for his ability to harmonize modern design principles with local traditions and the natural landscape. The Heritance Kandalama Hotel stands as a quintessential embodiment of his philosophy, appearing almost as an organic extension of the cliff face upon which it is built. Overlooking the serene Kandalama Reservoir, the structure is a testament to sustainable architecture, demonstrating how thoughtful design can coexist with nature without disrupting its delicate balance.
Despite Bawa’s passing, his legacy endures, continuing to inspire architects and designers around the world. Heritance Kandalama is a shining example of his genius, where luxury and nature exist in perfect symbiosis.
Our stay at this extraordinary resort was nothing short of inspirational. It culminated in a tranquil boat ride on the Kandalama Lake, where we had the opportunity to observe, record and listen to the exotic calls of over 500 species of birds. This mesmerizing experience was a reminder of the delicate balance between human creativity and the natural world—a balance that Bawa so masterfully achieved in his architectural masterpieces.
Our final stop was the capital city of Colombo, where I had the chance to relive life on Moors Road in Wellawatte, Colombo 6.”
As a kid growing up I used to walk and cycle up and down Moors Road Colombo 6 loving the sights and sounds of my neighbourhood, family and friends. Our family home stood just about 150 meters from the beach—a sanctuary filled with memories. But time has now rewritten the landscape. Now, high-rises dominate the skyline, standing tall on what was once my neighbourhood. Vicki had booked us a stay at the Mirage just down the road from our former home.
Out of curiosity and nostalgia, we knocked on the door of our old home, still standing among the high rises.To our lucky surprise, the current owner, a retired Attorney-at-Law,was home and welcomed us inside. As I guided Vicki through the rooms that once echoed with all those memories and dreams, the past came rushing back—an era now long gone, but never forgotten.
My father made the difficult decision to sell our family home, seeking a better future for his kids in Australia. But the Sri Lankan government of the time imposed a cruel restriction: we could leave, but we could take only £150 each. Like many others, my father turned to the black market in hopes of salvaging his hard-earned money. He placed his trust in someone who promised to transfer it safely—but sadly to date the money has never arrived.
Despite a harsh beginning, Australia has become a land of great opportunity for us. Yet, no matter how far and wide life has taken me, Sri Lanka a land of vibrant colours, rich culture, natural beauty and deep spirituality will always remain a part of me—a place of longing, carefree days and deep friendships that I cherish to this day, of love, and of loss.
